These
instructions are a simplified overview of the grape winemaking process. We also
suggest that you purchase a good winemaking book to help you get the best
results from your grapes.
1. Choose the grape variety you would like and decide how much wine you want to
make. (See the back of this page for a chart that will help you calculate
quantities of finished wine.)
2. Crush and destem your grapes and place them in your primary fermenter(s).
(Grapes require a lot more primary fermenter space than juice or kits. To
calculate the amount of primary space you’ll need, see the back of this page.)
For a small fee, Spagnol's will quickly crush and destem your grapes.
3. If the grapes are not in ideal condition (i.e., they show signs of decay or
mould), stir in 50 PPM potassium metabisulphite (approximately ½ teaspoon
sulphite per 100 pounds of grapes).
4. Record important data, such as titratable acid, free SO2, pH, specific
gravity, and fermentation temperature. We can give you approximate numbers for
much of this data, but the numbers for your grapes will likely be a little
different. Testing kits and equipment are available in our retail store. If you
don’t want to do the testing yourself, you can take advantage of our lab: we’ll
test the titratable acid, free SO2, pH and specific gravity of your grapes.
There is a charge for this service, but it’s worth it.
5. If necessary, adjust the specs you obtained at step 4. We can give you
advice on making adjustments.
6. Allow your must (crushed grapes) to reach 16–20°C (62–68°F). For every 100
pounds of grapes, stir in 10 grams of yeast nutrient (approx. 2½ tsp.) and 3.5
grams of pectic enzyme (approx. 1¼ tsp.). Sprinkle yeast over the surface—one 5
gram packet per 100 pounds of grapes.
7. Once fermentation starts, a cap of grape pulp will rise to the surface. Use
a long spoon or other tool to push this cap down at least twice a day. Pushing
down the cap keeps it moist, and extracts colour, body, tannin, flavours and
aroma from the pulp. This primary fermentation stage will probably last 4 to 10
days.
It can be hard to judge the right time to press your must. Generally, though,
shorter fermentation with the pulp will produce a lighter wine, and longer
fermentation will result in a darker, heavier wine. Whatever you decide, you
should try to press before or when the specific gravity reaches 1.000, so it’s
a good idea to take daily hydrometer readings. If you like the colour, flavour
and aroma of your wine, it’s probably a good time to press. Most winemakers
press sometime between the 4th and 10th day.
8. When you decide to press, scoop the must into a basket press or Idropress.
Make sure you first put a plastic bucket and sieve under the spout of the
press. Press your must slowly. The remaining pulp may be used for a second run
wine.
9. Pour your wine into a secondary fermenter, and attach an airlock and bung.
10. In 4 to 7 days, rack your wine off the gross solids (very heavy grape pulp
sediment). It is important to rack your wine off the gross solids early:
extended contact can leave your wine with a hydrogen sulphide aroma (rotten
eggs).
During days 4 to 7 the vigorous fermentation will be
complete. Sanitize and rinse the carboy or demijohn, siphon rod, siphon hose,
bung, airlock, wine thief, hydrometer and test jar.
Note : the addition of more yeast nutrient at this time provides yeast with
extra nutrients to ensure a complete fermentation occurs.
Use 5 grams of yeast nutrient per 23 litres(1¼.). 12 grams
per 54 litres(3 tsp).
1. Use the siphon hose and siphon rod to gently rack the wine from the elevated
primary fermenter to the carboy or demijohn. Be careful not to disturb the
sediment on the bottom of the primary fermenter.
2. Place the carboy or demijohn in an elevated fermentation area.
3. Fill the airlock half-way with water. Attach the bung and airlock.
On day 20 your wine should now be finished fermenting. Sanitize and rinse the
wine thief, hydrometer and test jar.
1. Remove airlock and bung.
2. Using the wine thief, fill your test jar. Record specific gravity (S.G.).
If S.G. is above 1.000, reattach airlock and bung and let fermentation continue
until S.G. is 1.000 or lower.
If S.G. is 1.000 or lower, proceed to Racking
(below).
RACKING
Sanitize and rinse a carboy/demijohn or primary fermenter, siphon rod, siphon
hose, bung and airlock.
1. Use the siphon hose and siphon rod to gently rack the wine from the elevated
carboy or demijohn to the sanitized carboy or demijohn. Be careful not to
disturb the sediment. (If you do not have a second carboy or demijohn, rack the
wine into the sanitized primary fermenter and then back into your clean and
sanitized carboy or demijohn.)
2. To help prevent oxidation and bacterial action, add 3 g (½ tsp.) of
metabisulphite per 23 litres of wine Mix thoroughly.
3. Top up carboy or demijohn with a similar wine (or water). Attach the bung
and airlock.
On day 50 sanitize and rinse a carboy/demijohn or primary fermenter, siphon
rod, siphon hose, bung and airlock.
1. Use the siphon hose and siphon rod to gently rack the wine from the elevated
carboy or demijohn to the sanitized carboy or demijohn. (If you do not have a
second carboy or demijohn, rack the wine into the sanitized primary fermenter
and then back into your clean and sanitized carboy or demijohn.)
2. Add 1.5 g (¼ tsp.) of metabisulphite per 23 litres (3.5 g [½ tsp.] per 54
litres). Dissolve it in 125 ml (¼ cup) of your wine and then gently stir into
the bulk of the wine. Mix thoroughly.
NOTE: If you like the taste of your wine at this point you can oak it, if
desired, and then add fining agents (see Oaking and Fining). If your wine
requires further ageing to allow its flavour to develop, continue to store it
in bulk—racking every three months and repeating the addition of 1.5 g (¼ tsp.)
of metabisulphite per 23 litres (3.5 g [½ tsp.] per 54 litres) at each
racking—until you like the taste of the wine. Then proceed to Oaking and Fining
below.
OAKING
NOTE: Oaking is not necessary, but it enhances the character of many wines. You
can add oak to virtually any red wine. The only white wines that are normally
oaked are Chardonnay and, on occasion, Sauvignon Blanc. Blush wines are never
oaked.
1. Remove bung and airlock.
2. Add 1 to 2 grams of oak chips or oak powder for every litre of wine.
3. Replace bung and airlock.
4. Taste your wine once a week until you like the way it tastes. This should
happen within two months. If you would like more oak flavour at the end of two
months, add a second dose.
5. When you are satisfied with the oak flavour in your wine, rack it off the
oak chips or powder. Proceed to Fining, below.
FINING
(usually two weeks before Bottling)
Add fining agents according to package instructions. We recommend Chitosan and
Kieselsol because they are effective and convenient, but other fining agents
(such as Sparkolloid) can be used. Rack your wine off any sediment before
adding finings and allow up to two weeks for it to clear.
NOTE: Wine with even the slightest haze should be fined, but fining agents are
not necessary if your wine is already perfectly clear. If you choose not to add
fining agents, proceed to Bottling.
BOTTLING
(usually two weeks after Fining)
Sanitize and rinse the siphon rod, siphon hose,and bottles.
1. Remove airlock and bung.
2. Siphon wine into clean, sanitized wine bottles, being careful not to disturb
any sediment on the bottom of the carboy or demijohn.
3. Cork the bottles using a corker.
After corking, bottles should be stored upright for 1 day. Bottles should then
be stored on their sides to keep the corks moist. Although your wine is
drinkable now, it will benefit from ageing.
